Epoxy Flooring FAQ

Epoxy flooring in DFW costs $5–$8 per square foot for flake systems and $8–$12 per square foot for metallic systems. A typical 2-car garage (400–500 sq ft) runs $1,800–$4,500 installed, including grinding, crack repair and topcoat. Commercial and driveway pricing varies by square footage and is quoted after a walkthrough.

Standard crack filling and minor spall repair are included in our written estimate. Major structural repairs (large spalls, significant settling) are called out separately so there are no surprises on install day.

Yes, financing is available through [[FINANCING_PARTNER]] with approved credit. Ask about current plans when you request your estimate.

A professionally installed epoxy or polyaspartic floor lasts 15–20+ years in the Texas climate. Longevity depends almost entirely on surface prep: diamond-ground slabs with a polyaspartic UV-stable topcoat resist the yellowing, softening and peeling that cheap DIY kits suffer after one or two summers.

Not if it's finished with a polyaspartic topcoat, which is UV-stable. Standard epoxy left in direct sun (driveways, open garages) will amber over time — that's why we use polyaspartic for any sun-exposed application.

Yes, when properly prepped and coated with the right system. "Hot tire pickup" — where a coating softens and lifts under a hot tire — is almost always a sign of poor slab prep or using standard epoxy outdoors instead of polyaspartic.

With a polyaspartic system you can walk on the floor in a few hours and park vehicles in about 24 hours. Traditional epoxy needs 24–72 hours before vehicle traffic and up to a week for full chemical cure.

Most 2-car garages are completed in one day with a polyaspartic system, or over two days with a traditional epoxy build.

Professional installation lasts far longer than DIY. Big-box epoxy kits are typically water-based, thinner, and applied over an acid-etched (not ground) surface, which is why most DIY garage floors peel or bubble within 1–3 years. Professional installers diamond-grind the slab and use higher-solids commercial-grade coatings that bond mechanically to the concrete.

We diamond-grind the entire slab to open its pores for a mechanical bond, fill and structurally repair any cracks or pitting with a polymer, and test for moisture vapor before selecting a coating chemistry. We never acid-etch, which is the main reason DIY and lower-quality installs fail.

Sweep or dust-mop regularly and clean spills with a mild soap and water; avoid harsh solvents or abrasive pads. A properly installed epoxy or polyaspartic floor needs no waxing, sealing or recoating for its full 15–20 year lifespan under normal residential use.

Yes. Once fully cured, epoxy and polyaspartic coatings are inert, non-toxic and easy to clean, with no ongoing off-gassing. We use low-VOC products and ventilate the space during installation.

Epoxy is more affordable and self-levels well for a smooth base, but it is not UV-stable and can yellow in direct sunlight. Polyaspartic is UV-stable, cures in hours instead of days, and can be installed across a wider temperature range. Many of our floors use an epoxy base coat with a polyaspartic topcoat to get the benefits of both. See our polyaspartic coatings page for more detail.